Why take the time and spend the money bleaching the planking? Compare this clip to the one posted earlier this week for an excellent before and after comparison of the 1946 Gar Wood Ensign. Bleaching makes the coloration infinitely more uniform, while it also raises the grain, thereby delivering the perfect environment for the filler stain that follows bleaching.
Sanding lightly, and I mean lightly, scuff off the “feathers’ left by bleaching by hand and using 200-220 grit paper comes next. Do not get aggressive here as the bleached layer is only 1/32” to 1/16” deep. Sand through it and you will either end up with disfiguring blotches when you stain, or you must bleach anew.
Wood Bleach is available at Jamestown Distributors.
Rather than applying once and allow the surface to dry, and then coming back with a second application that must be neutralized, we keep the planking wet with repeated applications of the equal-part A and B solution over at least 12 hours before allowing the wood to dry.
Our results speak for themselves.
Drying will continue for the rest of today. Yes, the covering boards appear a bit darker than is the rest of the planking at this moment. Why? Because they are original to 1946, and are therefore a bit more porous than is the new planking, they are still quite wet. Once dry, they will match the rest of the planking.
We will stain the planking using Interlux InterStain Wood Filler Stain in brown mahogany tomorrow morning.
Then comes three coats of Penetrating Epoxy, and into the paint booth she will go, where varnishing can begin.